Blog Post 2: Panbaben

Panbaben

Location: Oknyoja Isenja

6/14/19

Observation by Michael Hamady

The windy day stirred the ocean, creating a rather unpleasant boat ride towards Oknyoja Isenja. It was midday, and despite the rough 20-minute voyage from Big Island, the weather was warm and partly cloudy. Unlike our reception three months prior, the spirits of the guards (zheshut) and the Oknyo were pleasant and lighthearted. I was happy to join the ceremonial activity, panbaben, for it only occurs every three tropical years.

 Panbaben, refers to the celebratory gathering marking the end of the current Oknyoja and the start of the triannual Oknyoja, composed of new and ex-Oknyo. During Panbaben, the retiring Oknyo share their experiences to the newly elected Oknyoja while drinking an ancient brew and lounging around the Oknyojayit (Council Temple).

 A long wooden string instrument made from pine opened the ceremony. The speaker, Oknyota, acted as our guide for Panbaben. Roughly 40 people every triannual gathering receive the honor of participating in Panbaben. Of course, the nine retired Oknyo and the newly elected Oknyo attend the event, but also each personal guard of the Oknyo along with two brewers, a musician, and a server. Panbaben, while its intention is to pass knowledge from experienced to the inexperienced, heavy drinking customs pervaded the triannual tradition.

 The retired Oknyo did not waste time; they consumed the traditional brew at remarkable speeds. The newly elected Oknyo followed suit. All were jubilant, and after an hour of meet-and-greet, the Oknyota walked towards the center of the Oknyojayit and tapped her staff three times and placed it in a centerpiece, supporting it upright. The Oknyota, having already consumed five beverages, joyously, yet formally gave a commencement speech. Her speech caused others, both new and retired Oknyo to laugh and cheer. The Oktip cheer in a unique way. Examined two months prior, the Oktip make high pitched clicking sounds with their mouths signaling acclaim. Once her speech finished, each former Oknyo spoke for an undefined amount of time reminiscing on their positive and negative experiences.

 The first to follow the Oknyota merited much cheer, laughter, and teasing. Apparently, this specific former Oknyo was exceptionally opinionated. His political and judicial ideology was unconventional, unlike the United States political system, the Oktip politics are not cutthroat. The Oknyota whispered to me informing that the Oktip encourage diverse opinions regarding law and ideology; however, those who are directly unconventional frequently receive political mockery. The mockery is not ill-intended.

 Once all Oknyo spoke, socializing resumed. Drinking resumed. I feared the heavy consumption of alcohol would impair the guards’ ability to guide us back to the Big Island. None of the Oktip seemed to worry. The mood remained jubilant. Despite the heavy consumption of alcohol, no one felt ill, except for one newly elected Oknyo who was instructed to lay on the sloped beach.

 At nightfall, the final ceremonial tradition of Panbaben took place. All participants gathered under the Oknyojayit and sung a traditional Oknyoja song. After the song, the participants said they farewells and departed their separate ways. The former Oknyota informed me in our boat ride back what the closing song meant to the Oknyoja. The song depicts the ongoing struggle of reaching a collective agreement but reminds all former and new Oknyo that attainment of resolution is possible through compromise and respectfulness.